Savant Wines Notebook

Bordeaux, Burgundy and a gift for the boss

A friend sent me an email about buying a "nice bottle" of Bordeaux or Burgundy to give as a gift.  Of course vintage always matters in these regions, but without knowing what store he was shopping at and/or what was available to him, I tried to create a list as general as possible - without vintages.  Here are a few of my favorites (running about $35 to $125/bottle) - I would not be disappointed to receive a bottle from any of these producers, regardless of the vintage!

Bordeaux
Any Bordeaux fan would be thrilled with one of these:

• Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne, Saint-Emilion
• Chateau Sociando Mallet, Haut-Medoc
• Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac
  (Yes, I prefer Comtesse to Baron)
• Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion

Burgundy

Reputation of producer is the most important factor when selecting Burgundy.  Here are some excellent producers:

• Bruno Clair
• Henri Gouges
• Dujac
• Domaine de l'arlot
• Dominique Laurent

Next, I would consider the level (village, premier cru, grand cru.)   I highly suggest choosing at the Premier Cru (PC) level for a gift.  You must see the words "premier cru" or "1er cru" on the label.  There are many more PC than what I have listed below, so don't be alarmed if you can't find the exact one.  Again, producer is more important in Burgundy.  Personally, I would be thrilled with any PC, from any one of these villages, from any one of these producers. 

Last, I would consider wine style preference.  I prefer these villages, in this order:

• Chambolle-Musigny (PC: Les Charmes, Les Combottes) for nuance and delicacy
• Gevrey-Chambertin (PC: Clos Saint-Jacques, Les Cazetiers) for balance of fruit and power
• Nuits-Saints-Georges (PC: Les Perrieres) for juicy fruit

Kudos!  Another friend forwarded me his post titled: what to give your boss as a holiday gift.  A nice bottle is always appreciated - but a personal note goes so much farther then one could imagine!  Thanks to Ken at Corporate Intelligence Radio!

I want to import wine into the US

You cannot "just" ship wine into the US from abroad.  It has to be brought into the country via an importer.  There are lots of costs and much paperwork involved.  One of the biggest issues with shipping logistics - is how to bring in a small quantity at an affordable cost.

The standard way product is shipped into the US is via a container, which comes over on a cargo ship.  A standard container holds 1120 cases (20 pallets) which is typically way too much wine for your average person just getting started in the wine importation business, or for personal use (even when you include orders for your entire extended family!)  Thus a person in this situation has to look for a shipping consolidator to co-load their product with someone else.  This can cause many delays, more expenses and other issues.  Plus, you still need an importer of record.  You may be unwilling or unable to go through the licensing requirements and costs to become an importer.

Enter - Adventures in Wine.  They are an importer and distributor based in California.  A few years ago I became aware of a side business they were conducting - allowing other people (even consumers) to use their import license to bring wine into the country.  This opens up a world of possibilities for the average consumer or small business person just getting started in the wine importation business.

This service can be very useful to:

• Individuals - this allows you to import wine for yourself from small producers that do not import to the US.  Did you find the most fantastic wine on your trip last year to Southern France?  Many producers have exclusive import agreements with a chosen importer in the US - so those producers would be off limits, but many do not. 
• Individuals - who have a cousin back in Baden, an uncle in Sicily, or an aunt in Provence (making the most amazing wine of course!)  Now you have a way to get this wine into the country for personal consumption and/or for samples to use as sales tools to get try to get distribution in the US. 
• Want to try out importing? - This can be a way you can get a small amount of product into the country so you can get your wine importation business started on a shoe string.  (Caveat: I am not a lawyer and this is not business advice.  I recommend you consult with a lawyer before signing any business contracts.)

Adventures in Wine website here you can find their importation policies and pricing.

There are notable expenses not included here - such as the cost to get the product from the winery to the shipping dock in the EU, and the cost to get the product from the landing dock/importer's warehouse to you, in the US.  FYI: Wine in the EU is typically sold "ex-cellar", meaning you pay all costs once the wine leaves the cellar door.  At the wholesale level, wine in the US is typically sold "FOB" (freight on board) this means the buyer pays all costs from the point of origin (ie: importer's warehouse.)  So the costs listed in the agreement above are not all inclusive, they are ex-cellar and FOB.  You need to add these to the importation cost to come up with the final figure.  You will want to factor in all costs before you make a decision.

Happy importing!

How to find wine online

Trying to figure out how to find a wine locally that you had on your last vacation in wine country?  I get this question all the time and I typically refer people to Wine Searcher. 

As a wine consultant, I use Wine Searcher every day, at least 10 times a day.  It is on my internet toolbar I use it so often.  It is a massive database, filled by retailers with wine for sale, from all around the world.  I need to know what the "market visibility" and average retail price is for any wine, before it can be considered for purchase for a client.  Market visibility refers to how many retail listings there are for a particular wine.  My clients are typically looking for wine that is limited in production and not widely available.  So, I am typically looking for wines that have 25 or fewer retail listings, nationwide.

Wine Searcher allows me to see what is going on in New Jersey and North Carolina at the same time.  However, Wine Searcher also makes my job more difficult, especially with European imports.  Wine from Europe is often imported into New Jersey on the east coast.  It then has to be trucked across the country to California, where I purchase wine for my clients.  Sometimes the same wine sold in New Jersey will retail for less then what I can purchase it for wholesale.  None the less, Wine Searcher has been become a necessary evil in retail world.  It can be both boon and bogey.  Read more about why in this article in the LA Times: Wine Searcher levels the playing field.

When you are using Wine Searcher to look for a wine, start with a general search and then get more specific.  So, start with the winery or brand name and look for it on a national level.  Then add in the varietal.  Next, narrow your search to your particular state.  Not all retailers list all information about every wine - so if you search for something very specific (such as vintage), you may not find listings, even though the wine is sold in your state.

I would like to buy a bottle of wine from a specific vintage to give many decades later as a gift. What wine should I buy?

This question usually goes like this:  "I want to buy a bottle of wine for my nephew who was just born and give it to him when he is 21 years old."  Or "I want to buy a bottle of wine from the year I was married and open it on my 20th anniversary."

In both of these cases, you should be looking for a bottle of wine that will age for a substantial amount of time.  You want to look for a wine that has one of three natural preservatives in high amounts: tannin, acidity and/or residual sugar.  See this post on aging wine. 

Bordeaux, Port and Barolo would all be excellent candidates but most importantly you should seek out something from:

• a fine estate (knowledge, history, reputation)
• an excellent growing region (history, reputation)
• an excellent year (good weather makes great grapes)
• one that has been reviewed by a reputable wine writer in regards to its general longevity in the bottle 

The general rule of thumb is, the amount of time it takes for a wine to reach it's peak is the amount of time the wine will hold before it begins to decline.  After you have met the criteria above, you will want to find out when the wine is estimated to be at its peak.  If you find that the wine will be at it's peak 10 years from the vintage, then you can guess-timate that it will last 20 years.  (I use the word guess-timate because this is not an exact science.)    

However, before you go running off to the store, you have to consider how you will age this bottle for the next 10, 15 or 20 years - otherwise it will be vinegar by the time you open it.  Proper long-term storage conditions are:

• 50-55 degrees F
• 70% humidity
• dark
• no vibrations
• lack of strong aromas

If you can not store your wine in this method for the length of time needed, then you are better off seeking that particular vintage from an auction house or a fine wine shop closer to the date of opening.  While the wine will be substantially more expensive, you will not have had the expense (or worry) of aging it properly.  As well, there will be many more reviews available at the time of purchase that will help you to verify the wine has indeed lasted as long as expected.

Question Submitted: A.M. / Fall 2009

What is the best way to keep leftover wine?

The key is to limit the amount of oxygen the wine is exposed to and to reduce the temperature.  Following these inexpensive steps below can give you an additional 3 to 10 days on an open bottle of wine.

• Transfer the wine to a smaller (clean) container.  The 1/2" of wine exposed to oxygen at the top of a 375 ml is substantially less then the 3 - 4" exposed in a half full 750 ml bottle.
• Spray the leftover wine with inert gas that is heavier then air.  Inert gas will not react with the wine and will form a layer between the wine and the air we breathe.  Wine Preserve is a commonly used product.  Inert gases are usually a mix of: Nitrogen, Argon and/or CO2.
• Chemical reactions (such as oxidation) increase with temperature.  Lowering the temperature also lowers the speed of these chemical reactions.  So go ahead, stick that leftover red wine in the fridge.  When you are ready for another glass it will take about 30 minutes to come to room temperature. 

The same elements in wine that allow it to age in the bottle will also help to keep the wine once it is open.  Wines with greater tannin, acidity and residual sugar will last the longest in the fridge.  Those wines that have delicate and highly aromatic aromas are more sensitive and volatile - they typically have the shortest life as a leftover.

Question Submitted: A.M. / Fall 2009

How do you tip on wine?

General Tipping on Wine
It is customary to tip on the wine at the same rate that you would for the entire meal.  Just as you would if you were drinking cocktails.  So, if you are planning to leave 20% for excellent service for the meal, then you would leave 20% of the entire bill (wine included.) 

What if it is an expensive bottle?
Consider how you define 'expensive.'  Living in Los Angeles, I would consider this to be anything over $150/bottle.  For anything less then this, I would tip as normal.  For wine over $150/bottle, if there was no additional or exceptional service, then I would be inclined to tip a smaller percentage on the wine (say 10%) then on the rest of the bill.  I would define excellent wine service as: knowledge of the wine list and wines, proper opening, decanting when appropriate, crystal glassware, pouring proper amounts, proper temperature, proper timing of service, aged bottles and food/wine pairing knowledge.

Do you tip the sommelier?
To determine if you should tip the sommelier directly, you might say something like this: "The wine service was excellent.  Will a portion of the tip go to the sommelier?"  If the answer is no, and you received excellent service, then you might consider tipping the sommelier directly.  If you do tip the sommelier directly you might make note of it on the bill in case the server is required to 'tip out' on the wine sales.

Sommeliers get paid in many different ways:  

• They are a manager and do not take tips.  In this case, they are usually compensated by the restaurant, based on an overall percentage of wine sales.  
• The sommelier receives a percentage of the nightly tips from the service staff.  This is called 'Tipping out.'  Servers have to 'tip out' many people.  The bar, the busboy, the food runners, the host/hostess and the sommelier.  This is the most common method.
• The sommelier is tipped directly by the customer.  This is less common these days but customary, especially with extremely expensive wines ($300+.)

Corkage
If you are bringing your own bottle of wine, expect to pay a corkage fee.  

• Most corkage fees range from $5 to $20. 
• Many restaurants will waive a corkage fee for every bottle you buy.  In this case, a good plan is to buy a bottle of white and bring a bottle of red.  
• If you are going to a very exclusive restaurant, you should check to see if they allow it - some do not. 
• Be sure you are bringing something special or unique - something that you can not ordinarily find on the list - no two buck chuck, please! 
• The corkage fee goes to the restaurant and not to the server or sommelier who is actually servicing your table.  When it comes time to tip, you should tip on the wine service too.  For example, if you would have ordered a $40 bottle of wine and you intend to leave 20% for excellent service, then you should leave 20% of the bill + $8 (for wine service.)

Question Submitted: D.T. / Fall 2009

What allows a wine to age?

Approximately 95% of all wine is produced in a style that is meant to be consumed within 3-5 years of harvest.  This is determined by grape variety, growing region and how the wine is produced.  Roughly 5% of all wine will get better with age and thus is worthy of aging.  A wine that is worthy of aging must have a moderate to relatively high amount of at least one of these components:

• tannin
• acidity
• residual sugar

These components act as natural preservatives and slow the process of oxidation.  The wines that age the longest typically have a combination of two of these components.  Some examples:

• Red Bordeaux - tannin & acidity
• Barolo - tannin & acidity
• Mosel Riesling - acidity & residual sugar
• Sauternes - acidity & residual sugar

The length of time a wine can age is often used as an indicator for how great a wine is.  In other words, great wines age longer then average wines.  The ability to age is one of several factors that make a great wine, great.

Question Submitted: L.B. / Fall 2009

How do you relate wine scores to your own taste?

Wine scores and reviews are confusing.  It is hard to understand how the same wine received 92 points from one reviewer and only 88 points from another.  Or how to equate a 20 point scale to a 100 point scale.

Just like movie reviewers, wine reviewers have different preferences.  It is usually best to find a single reviewer who has similar taste preferences as yours and then follow their recommendations.  And you may even want to choose a different reviewer for different regions.  Someone who is adept at describing Bordeaux may not be with Burgundy.  Buy a few various bottles that reviewer recommends and see if you agree.  Examples of individual wine reviewers would be: Robert Parker, Steven Tanzer, Allen Meadows, Jancis Robinson. 

Wine reviews that are achieved by group consensus should be taken as an overall indication as to the quality level of the wine.  In a group setting you may have one reviewer give a wine a 88 points and another give the same wine 92 points - so the average (and what get's printed) is the consensus score of 90 points.  Examples of consensus reviews would be (when an individual reviewer is not noted): Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast.

When a wine is being reviewed, whether blind or not, it is often tasted in a group with other wines of a similar nature.  The wines are compared against one another and what is typical for that region or style.  It is important to follow a reviewer who has a good deal of experience with that particular region or style, as they will be comparing the wines reviewed to their own internal database. 

Wines will often receive different scores based on how they are tasted.  Often times when tasting a group of wines, the wine that is the most robust will stand out and receive higher scores.  Those that are more delicate or those that need time to open up, do not always show at their best.  Wines also change in the bottle as they go through various stages of development.

It is difficult sometimes to make sense of the words that are used when reviewing of a wine.  If more reviews focused on the components and/or structure of a wine, I think we all would find them more helpful.  The acidity, tannin, residual sugar and body of a wine can be easily defined in simple, clear terms - but yet they are often left out or only eluded to.

You have to do some detective work to translate what the words are implying about the wine.  Then you have to determine if the writer's descriptions match up with your own understanding.  For example - when I see the words "clean, fresh, crisp" I would assume that means higher acidity levels and little or no fermentation aromas.  If my internal definitions do not match with the wine writer's, then I would be unlikely to follow this reviewer.

Question Submitted: E.H./ Fall 2009