Savant Wines Notebook

Tannins & Bitterness in Wine

Tannins and bitterness are often difficult to separate and properly identify in wine.

Tannins contribute to two sensations on the palate - astringency (lack of water) and bitterness. (Please note to word: CONTRIBUTE here.  There are other components in wine that also can enhance one, or both, sensations.)

Tannins are a type of polyphenol. Polyphenols are a small molecule that in wine, come primarily from the skins of the grape and/or from wood contact (wood barrels.) Tannins cause the sensation of astringency. An astringent substance is one that causes tissues to constrict. The word "tannin" originally comes from the process of using plant extracts to cure hides (remove water) to make leather. Think of the phrase "tanning a hide".

In wine, the tannins bind with proteins in your saliva. (The next time you spit out a red wine - look into your spit cup - you will see some gross stringy things floating around. These are the tannins forming complex chemical chains with your saliva.) Tannins cause the sensation of all of the water (saliva) being removed from your mouth. In actuality, it is not being removed from your mouth (unless you spit or swallow) it is simply being 'bound up' so that it no longer coats the inside of your mouth. A high level of tannins in a wine will leave your mouth feeling rough, with a sandpaper-like texture.

We should describe this as - the sensation of astringency. However, it is commonly described as a drying sensation (a lack of water, not a lack of sweetness.)

We feel the sensation of tannins (astringency) all throughout our mouth. Mostly on the middle of the tongue, the roof of the mouth, the sides of the cheeks - and the gums. Astringency from tannins are felt all over your mouth.

Bitterness is one of the five primary tastes. Bitterness and astringency are often confused on the palate - but they are sensed differently. The receptor sites for bitterness sit at the very back of the tongue and the soft palate.

A good way to perfect your ability to detect bitterness, is with tonic water, which has quinine in it. Add a small amount of it to a neutral beverage until you just get to the point where you can start to detect it. Get the diet version with no sweeteners added.  The sensation of bitterness will be localized primarily to this spot in the back of your mouth.  (NOT all over your mouth, the way we sense astringency from tannins.)

Another way to focus in on bitterness without astringency getting in the way, is to taste a dry (less sweet) wine AFTER a sweet wine.  An example in easily found wines: taste something like Kung Fu Girl Riesling before tasting an unoaked Chardonnay like Hendry Estate.  The Chardonnay will taste completely bitter.

Do California wines age faster than old world wines?

Question: Do California wines age faster than the old world wines?

Answer:  There are 3 primary components that allow a wine to age: tannin, acidity and residual sugar.  To age well, a wine needs to have 2 out of the 3.  These structural components act as natural preservatives.  They slow down the oxidation process, allowing the primary fruit aromas to develop into tertiary ones.  It is also important to note - you must have good fruit concentration from the start - otherwise the wine will have the ability to age, but there is very little to develop from.

The specific growing region and the winemaking style can also contribute to agebility.  In general, wines from California do age more quickly than wines from Bordeaux or Barolo, as example.  If we were to compare Napa Valley vs. Bordeaux, the climate in Napa is warmer (lower acidity) and the harvest date is typically later in the season (riper, more concentrated fruit, less astringent tannins, lower acidity.)  And lastly, as compared to Bordeaux or Barolo, wines from California are typically not aged as long in new wood barrels (lower tannins.) 

Question Submitted: S.G. / Summer 2011

What to look for when buying Beaujolais:

Question: I have a question about Beaujolais wines. There has been a lot of buzz about the 09 vintage being excellent, and I was wondering if I should be concerned with mixing that up with the Nouveau wines. How can I tell the difference, is it clearly labeled?  AG 11/2/10

Answer: Beaujolais Nouveau is released on the 3rd Thursday of November - so mid-November is when you will start hearing the most about it.  You'll see the current release around Thanksgiving.  It will be dated with the current vintage, which is 2010.  The grapes were grown, harvested and made into wine in 2010. 

Beaujolais Nouveau (BN) is made with a unique fermentation method called carbonic maceration (CM).  It is an intracellular fermentation (conversion of sugar to alcohol) without the use of yeast.  The benefits are that the wine ferments quickly, it limits the extraction of tannins and it produces a bright, fresh, fruity aroma.  These wines are meant to be consumed quickly, while their aromas are at their height.

In general 2009 is indeed an excellent vintage in many parts of France, and worth looking for as it starts arriving on store shelves over the next few years.  As well, 2009 is likely to be one of the best vintages on record for Beaujolais.  2009 BN was released a year ago, in November 2009.  Most people sell out of BN by New Year's Eve, or the next spring at the latest.  Because of the fermentation method it does not produce a wine with a very long shelf life.

In theory, no reputable seller should have any 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau left on their shelves at this point.  However, it certainly is possible.  A few months ago I saw a case stack of 2006 BN at a grocery store!  I can only assume that someone found it in the back and moved it to the floor without realizing what it was.  In general, a four year old BN is not a good bet. 

So, look for the words "Nouveau" specifically, in conjunction with the vintage.  When you see this word, it should be for the current year (which is 2010).  If you are looking for regular Beaujolais (not Nouveau) just make sure that "Nouveau" does not appear on the label.  For 2009 vintage, for regular Beaujolais, I would also suggest looking for "Beaujolais Villages" as it comes from a selection of villages that have better soil (granite) and produce better wine in general.  It will run you about $2 more per bottle, but typically worth it.  I would also suggest visiting a wine retailer (like The Wine House) for this wine.  Not all, but much of the stuff in grocery stores is large volume, mass produced.  For about $14/bottle you should be able to find a 2009 Beaujolais Villages from a small producer.  (Dominique Piron is one of my favorites.)

In about a year or so, you will be able to buy Grand Cru Beaujolais (Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-a-Vent, etc.) for about $25-$30/btl.  These are not nearly on par with the red Grand Cru's of Burgundy (Pinot Noir), but they are the very best that the Gamy grape has to offer, from the best granite hillsides.  2009 should be excellent.  The Grand Crus of Beaujolais (in a wonderfully ripe vintage like 2009) can be some of the best bargains around!

On a similar note, you'll want to watch for the word "joven" on Spanish wines.  It translates as "young".  Technically (by law) it means that no wood was used in the making of the wine.  When I was in Spain a few years ago, almost all of the "joven" wines I tasted were produced mostly by CM.  The export market is a little different though, because CM does not have a long shelf life.  In the US, in my experience, "joven" wines are typically part CM/part regular fermentation.  In general you would want to see "joven" in conjunction with a very young vintage.  For example "joven" on a 2009 would be acceptable now and in April of next year when the young 2010 reds start coming out.  Next year, "joven" on 2009 and 2010 would be acceptable.  2007 and 2008 is starting to push it, but would depend on the producer.  "Joven" on a 2006 (or older vintage) would not be a good bet at all. 

Question Submitted: A.L. / Fall 2010

Green Corks?

No, we're not talking about green colored corks, but the fact that corks are more environmentally friendly (aka green) then alternative closures such as screwcaps and synthetics.  This makes sense when you think about where the products come from and how they are created (cork, screwcap, synthetic.)  For the details, the Price Waterhouse report is here: Cork Facts

In reading about this story I found myself on the Amorim cork website where there was (no surprise) many articles spouting the virtues of natural cork.  I readily admit, I do prefer/expect a cork finish for wines over $25 retail / to be aged 5+ years, but I also see many positive attributes in alternative closures.  It should not be a question of either/or.

On the Amorim website, I found this interesting press release, stating that a leading expert in the USA had declared TCA Taint Resolved and that natural corks have achieved a 99% performance rating.

I guess the bottles that we get in Los Angeles must be different???  In this week's class Introduction to Wine @ UCLA Extension we had 1 corked bottle (TCA tainted) out of 18 bottles total.  There were 4 bottles under screwcap, so this is 1/14.  The price range of the wines was $14.99 - $67.99.  I estimate before this course is over (6 weeks, 100 bottles) we will come across another 2-3 corked bottles.  Subtract out the screwcaps and synthetics (30%) and we will have 4/70 bottles corked = 4 - 6% corked (TCA tainted) bottles.

I will keep track of the total number of corked bottles this quarter and comment on this post next month.  However, this number of 4 - 6% TCA taint is completely in line with the averages I see in my work, and through the wine courses I teach.  Yes, I think the incidence of TCA taint on the whole, has gone down over the last several years ... but resolved to less then 1%?  I completely disagree with this statement.

Why take tasting notes?

Robin Garr of 30 Second Wine Advisor says it so well ...

"And just about every wine professional I know would agree that a strong tasting memory is one of the keys to training a good palate. The more you can remember about previous wines, the more effectively you can gauge each new wine you taste."

Why Take Tasting Notes

What is the best way to keep leftover wine?

The key is to limit the amount of oxygen the wine is exposed to and to reduce the temperature.  Following these inexpensive steps below can give you an additional 3 to 10 days on an open bottle of wine.

• Transfer the wine to a smaller (clean) container.  The 1/2" of wine exposed to oxygen at the top of a 375 ml is substantially less then the 3 - 4" exposed in a half full 750 ml bottle.
• Spray the leftover wine with inert gas that is heavier then air.  Inert gas will not react with the wine and will form a layer between the wine and the air we breathe.  Wine Preserve is a commonly used product.  Inert gases are usually a mix of: Nitrogen, Argon and/or CO2.
• Chemical reactions (such as oxidation) increase with temperature.  Lowering the temperature also lowers the speed of these chemical reactions.  So go ahead, stick that leftover red wine in the fridge.  When you are ready for another glass it will take about 30 minutes to come to room temperature. 

The same elements in wine that allow it to age in the bottle will also help to keep the wine once it is open.  Wines with greater tannin, acidity and residual sugar will last the longest in the fridge.  Those wines that have delicate and highly aromatic aromas are more sensitive and volatile - they typically have the shortest life as a leftover.

Question Submitted: A.M. / Fall 2009

What allows a wine to age?

Approximately 95% of all wine is produced in a style that is meant to be consumed within 3-5 years of harvest.  This is determined by grape variety, growing region and how the wine is produced.  Roughly 5% of all wine will get better with age and thus is worthy of aging.  A wine that is worthy of aging must have a moderate to relatively high amount of at least one of these components:

• tannin
• acidity
• residual sugar

These components act as natural preservatives and slow the process of oxidation.  The wines that age the longest typically have a combination of two of these components.  Some examples:

• Red Bordeaux - tannin & acidity
• Barolo - tannin & acidity
• Mosel Riesling - acidity & residual sugar
• Sauternes - acidity & residual sugar

The length of time a wine can age is often used as an indicator for how great a wine is.  In other words, great wines age longer then average wines.  The ability to age is one of several factors that make a great wine, great.

Question Submitted: L.B. / Fall 2009

How do you relate wine scores to your own taste?

Wine scores and reviews are confusing.  It is hard to understand how the same wine received 92 points from one reviewer and only 88 points from another.  Or how to equate a 20 point scale to a 100 point scale.

Just like movie reviewers, wine reviewers have different preferences.  It is usually best to find a single reviewer who has similar taste preferences as yours and then follow their recommendations.  And you may even want to choose a different reviewer for different regions.  Someone who is adept at describing Bordeaux may not be with Burgundy.  Buy a few various bottles that reviewer recommends and see if you agree.  Examples of individual wine reviewers would be: Robert Parker, Steven Tanzer, Allen Meadows, Jancis Robinson. 

Wine reviews that are achieved by group consensus should be taken as an overall indication as to the quality level of the wine.  In a group setting you may have one reviewer give a wine a 88 points and another give the same wine 92 points - so the average (and what get's printed) is the consensus score of 90 points.  Examples of consensus reviews would be (when an individual reviewer is not noted): Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast.

When a wine is being reviewed, whether blind or not, it is often tasted in a group with other wines of a similar nature.  The wines are compared against one another and what is typical for that region or style.  It is important to follow a reviewer who has a good deal of experience with that particular region or style, as they will be comparing the wines reviewed to their own internal database. 

Wines will often receive different scores based on how they are tasted.  Often times when tasting a group of wines, the wine that is the most robust will stand out and receive higher scores.  Those that are more delicate or those that need time to open up, do not always show at their best.  Wines also change in the bottle as they go through various stages of development.

It is difficult sometimes to make sense of the words that are used when reviewing of a wine.  If more reviews focused on the components and/or structure of a wine, I think we all would find them more helpful.  The acidity, tannin, residual sugar and body of a wine can be easily defined in simple, clear terms - but yet they are often left out or only eluded to.

You have to do some detective work to translate what the words are implying about the wine.  Then you have to determine if the writer's descriptions match up with your own understanding.  For example - when I see the words "clean, fresh, crisp" I would assume that means higher acidity levels and little or no fermentation aromas.  If my internal definitions do not match with the wine writer's, then I would be unlikely to follow this reviewer.

Question Submitted: E.H./ Fall 2009