Savant Wines Notebook

Parking for UCLA Extension Building

I teach 2 courses per quarter at UCLA Extenion in Westwood.  The building is located just off of the main campus and parking can be tricky in this part of town.  Of course there are plenty of meters but they are very aggressive with tickets, so be sure to keep your meter full.

UCLA Extension
10995 Le Conte Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90024
(At the corner of Le Conte, Gayley and Levering)

Per my students, the cheapest place to park in the area is behind the Irish bar called O'Hara's.  Coming from Wilshire, take Gayley, turn right onto Weyburn (O'Hara's on the corner) and the parking lot is right behind it.  This is sort of the back side of Whole Foods parking structure.  Last I heard, it is $3.00 for the night if you arrive after 6:00 pm.

Note: if there are any events/movie premiers going in Westwood Village, all private parking lots in the area will shoot up to $20 - and you are better off in one of the UCLA parking structures.  There are two relatively convenient UCLA parking structures that I believe cost about $8 for the night. 

The Medical Center parking structure (Structure #1), is almost kitty-corner from the Extension building.  Coming from Wilshire, take Gayley, you will see the entrance to the parking structure on your right, just after you cross Le Conte.

The other parking structure (Structure #32) is a little further away on Kinross, between Gayley and Veteran.  Enterance is off Kinross.

Map of UCLA Parking Structures

Please travel in groups when leaving the classroom at night.  The security desk at the building is more than happy to offer you an escort to your car at any time - please feel free to ask!

Do California wines age faster than old world wines?

Question: Do California wines age faster than the old world wines?

Answer:  There are 3 primary components that allow a wine to age: tannin, acidity and residual sugar.  To age well, a wine needs to have 2 out of the 3.  These structural components act as natural preservatives.  They slow down the oxidation process, allowing the primary fruit aromas to develop into tertiary ones.  It is also important to note - you must have good fruit concentration from the start - otherwise the wine will have the ability to age, but there is very little to develop from.

The specific growing region and the winemaking style can also contribute to agebility.  In general, wines from California do age more quickly than wines from Bordeaux or Barolo, as example.  If we were to compare Napa Valley vs. Bordeaux, the climate in Napa is warmer (lower acidity) and the harvest date is typically later in the season (riper, more concentrated fruit, less astringent tannins, lower acidity.)  And lastly, as compared to Bordeaux or Barolo, wines from California are typically not aged as long in new wood barrels (lower tannins.) 

Question Submitted: S.G. / Summer 2011

Bubbles in Riesling?

Question: I don't recall if bubbles in Riesling are considered a flaw or not.  Also, are the bubbles produced as a result of fermentation in the bottle?

Answer: In Riesling, bubbles are not considered to be a flaw, although for most high end Riesling ($30+) they will naturally be eliminated  by bottling later or using a permeable vessel (ie: Alsace).  If the wine is to be bottled young and bubbles are not desired, a producer can sparge the wine with a neutral gas to remove them. 

In general, bubbles are not considered a flaw for white wine.  They are most commonly found in aromatic varietals that are bottled young.  Ideally bubbles in a white wine are either leftover from primary fermentation, or they are added at the time of bottling via CO2 injection. 

Bubbles in some white wines (such as Chardonnay) are not a flaw, but considered atypical.  In regards to Chardonnay, this is most likely due to the fact that a good portion of high end wine is aged for many months in barrel - during which time the fermentation bubbles naturally dissipate.   So while it is not a fualt, it is also not typical for the varietal.

In contrast, bubbles are considered to be a flaw for red wines on the commercial market.  Perceptible bubbles in red wine is not a trait that a winemaker would purposefully keep (from primary fermentation) or add (inject with CO2) in a red wine.  However, I know a few winemakers who actually do inject their red wine with a tiny amount of CO2 at bottling.  This is done in very small amounts so the bubbles are imperceptible on the palate - it is done to give the wine "lift".

Bubbles can be produced in white and red wine via undesirable means - and this is when it is a flaw.  They can be produced if a wine re-ferments in the bottle (sugar + yeast) or if the wine goes through MLF (malic acid + lactic acid bacteria) in the bottle.  In this case, in addition to the bubbles, you would have cloudiness or sediment, and sometimes a "dish-drain" type of aroma.

Question Submitted: J.T. / Winter 2011

Pinot Days Faves

  
Pinot Days was in SoCal this weekend at Barker Hangar in Santa Monica!  Lots of fabulous wines to taste - so many to choose from!  In Pinot Noir, I am a fan of: elegance, finesse, savory meaty red cherries, and a balance of acidity, fruit and soft wood notes.  Here are some of my favorites from this tasting:

2007 David Vergari, Sangiocomo Vineyard, Sonoma Coast (find at: Woodland Hills Wine Co.)

2008 La Follette, Sangiocomo Vineyard (hmmm ... I am sensing a theme here)

2007 Etude Estate, Carneros (find at: Wine House)

2007 Morgan Winery "Tondre Grapefield" Santa Lucia Highlands

Happy Pinot Days to you!
SL

Protecting red wine from oxygen during fermentation

Question:  How important is it to protect a red wine from oxygen during fermentation?

Answer:  Oxygen is a dual edged sword.  It can be both detrimental and beneficial to wine.

As long as the must is actively and aggressively fermenting, the CO2 being produced will keep the yeast in an oxygen deprived state (so it will produce alcohol) and protect the must/wine from oxygen ingress.  Typically punch downs, pump overs, delestage (if they are going to occur) occur with the highest frequency, and without too much worry, during active fermentation.  This is a key bit though - the wine has to be fully/actively fermenting.  Not just a pocket of it.  This would be checked by progressive changes in density (monitoring the drop of sugar) and temperature.  Once the fermentation begins to slow down - pump overs/punch downs become less frequent.  (Depends on the grape variety and the producer, of course.) 

The time to be concerned about oxygen ingress is when fermentation slows down/stops.  This is when you would start topping tanks with an unreactive gas (CO2, argon, nitrogen or a mix) after every winemaking procedure until it is bottled.  Certain wines will continue to be kept in tank, on their skins, after primary fermentation (ie: Cabernet Sauvignon) for an extended maceration to extract more polyphenols (tannins).  3-4 weeks is not uncommon.  A tiny bit of oxygen is ok at this point as it helps to "fix" the color molecules to the tannin molecules (see: Micro-ox) but large amounts will ruin the new wine. 

Acetic acid bacteria is a big concern at this stage - it flourishes with oxygen and feeds on alcohol - it can quickly turn a wine into vinegar, if it is not controlled.  Since acetic acid bacteria is widely prevelant in wineries, the easiest method to control it, is to control the wine's exposure to oxygen.

Question Submitted: D.T. / Fall 2010

What to look for when buying Beaujolais:

Question: I have a question about Beaujolais wines. There has been a lot of buzz about the 09 vintage being excellent, and I was wondering if I should be concerned with mixing that up with the Nouveau wines. How can I tell the difference, is it clearly labeled?  AG 11/2/10

Answer: Beaujolais Nouveau is released on the 3rd Thursday of November - so mid-November is when you will start hearing the most about it.  You'll see the current release around Thanksgiving.  It will be dated with the current vintage, which is 2010.  The grapes were grown, harvested and made into wine in 2010. 

Beaujolais Nouveau (BN) is made with a unique fermentation method called carbonic maceration (CM).  It is an intracellular fermentation (conversion of sugar to alcohol) without the use of yeast.  The benefits are that the wine ferments quickly, it limits the extraction of tannins and it produces a bright, fresh, fruity aroma.  These wines are meant to be consumed quickly, while their aromas are at their height.

In general 2009 is indeed an excellent vintage in many parts of France, and worth looking for as it starts arriving on store shelves over the next few years.  As well, 2009 is likely to be one of the best vintages on record for Beaujolais.  2009 BN was released a year ago, in November 2009.  Most people sell out of BN by New Year's Eve, or the next spring at the latest.  Because of the fermentation method it does not produce a wine with a very long shelf life.

In theory, no reputable seller should have any 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau left on their shelves at this point.  However, it certainly is possible.  A few months ago I saw a case stack of 2006 BN at a grocery store!  I can only assume that someone found it in the back and moved it to the floor without realizing what it was.  In general, a four year old BN is not a good bet. 

So, look for the words "Nouveau" specifically, in conjunction with the vintage.  When you see this word, it should be for the current year (which is 2010).  If you are looking for regular Beaujolais (not Nouveau) just make sure that "Nouveau" does not appear on the label.  For 2009 vintage, for regular Beaujolais, I would also suggest looking for "Beaujolais Villages" as it comes from a selection of villages that have better soil (granite) and produce better wine in general.  It will run you about $2 more per bottle, but typically worth it.  I would also suggest visiting a wine retailer (like The Wine House) for this wine.  Not all, but much of the stuff in grocery stores is large volume, mass produced.  For about $14/bottle you should be able to find a 2009 Beaujolais Villages from a small producer.  (Dominique Piron is one of my favorites.)

In about a year or so, you will be able to buy Grand Cru Beaujolais (Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-a-Vent, etc.) for about $25-$30/btl.  These are not nearly on par with the red Grand Cru's of Burgundy (Pinot Noir), but they are the very best that the Gamy grape has to offer, from the best granite hillsides.  2009 should be excellent.  The Grand Crus of Beaujolais (in a wonderfully ripe vintage like 2009) can be some of the best bargains around!

On a similar note, you'll want to watch for the word "joven" on Spanish wines.  It translates as "young".  Technically (by law) it means that no wood was used in the making of the wine.  When I was in Spain a few years ago, almost all of the "joven" wines I tasted were produced mostly by CM.  The export market is a little different though, because CM does not have a long shelf life.  In the US, in my experience, "joven" wines are typically part CM/part regular fermentation.  In general you would want to see "joven" in conjunction with a very young vintage.  For example "joven" on a 2009 would be acceptable now and in April of next year when the young 2010 reds start coming out.  Next year, "joven" on 2009 and 2010 would be acceptable.  2007 and 2008 is starting to push it, but would depend on the producer.  "Joven" on a 2006 (or older vintage) would not be a good bet at all. 

Question Submitted: A.L. / Fall 2010

How to prepare for the Certified Specialist of Wine Exam (CSW)

Got questions about the Society of Wine Educators Certified Specialist of Wine Exam?  Wondering how much time it takes to prepare?  Read on ...

I proctor the CSW exam at UCLA Ext. 2 x a year - in December and June.  Click here to join my student mailing list (it goes out every 6 weeks or so) and it will inform you of the exact dates of the exams and courses, as they are scheduled.  You register for the exam via SWE, not UCLA Ext.

Currently UCLA Ext. does not offer a CSW exam prep class, as the courses taught already cover the information needed to pass the exam.  However due to many requests, I am working on an exam prep workshop for 2011.  I will be announcing details in December, and there will be information about exam prep workshops in my newsletter.   

These are the general guidelines I give my students about preparing for the CSW exam: 

• The CSW exam is solely based on the CSW Study Guide.  You absolutely must get a copy of this and study directly from it in order to pass the exam.  Order it from the SWE.
• You should look at any exam for wine certification, as the conclusion of a wine study program.  It is a certification of the knowledge you have learned.  The knowledge should be the goal, not the exam itself.
• Your success on passing the exam will solely depend on how much time you devote to studying.  An instructor can explain the regions, laws, concepts, methodology - but you alone are responsible for committing this information to memory.
• It is not a matter of just reading the study guide.  You must know the definitions of all key terms (facts) and be able to apply the knowledge to answer the exam questions correctly.
• You should spend a considerable amount of time with the SWE's CSW online prep site.  It will give you a feel for how the questions/answers are worded and the difficulty level of the exam questions.  The difficulty level of the CSW questions is on par with exams for the courses Vintage I, II and III at UCLA Ext. 
• If you have a moderate base of wine knowledge then you should plan to study for 20 hours a week for 10-12 weeks in preparation for the CSW exam.  Doing this in conjunction with a wine course can be beneficial as you will have an instructor on hand to explain concepts in more detail.  Receiving detailed information in various formats helps you to remember information and apply it in an exam. 
• Use the CSW Study Guide as your only point of reference for facts in preparing for the CSW exam.  You, or an instructor, may legitimately disagree with a fact presented in the manual.  Get over it.  The CSW exam is taken exclusively from this manual only - put aside everything else as reference.  You are being tested on the facts presented in the CSW manual.    
• If you have very little wine knowledge, then you must take some structured wine classes prior to beginning a study program for a wine certification exam.  I recommend 9-12 months of classes, and figure you will spend about 10-15 hours a week at it.  Slow, steady, consistent delivery in a variety of formats, is what will help you to retain information and apply it in an exam situation.  You need to build a foundation of knowledge BEFORE you begin to study for a wine certification exam.
• Introduction to Wine at UCLA Ext. is a good place to start, but the course in itself is NOT even close enough to prepare you for the CSW exam.
• I have had several students complete the entire sequential certificate program in Wine Education and Management at UCLA Ext and go on to pass the CSW exam on their first try.  (Intro to Wine, Vintage I - Viticulture & Enology, Vintage II - European Wine Regions, Vintage III - New World Wine Regions, Business of Wine Management)

Links for further reference:

• FAQs on Wine Certification
• Information on the UCLA Wine Education & Management Program
• UCLA Ext - the best place to take wine classes in Los Angeles
• UCLA Extension
• Society of Wine Educators
• Join my student mailing list for updates on courses and exams

Please feel free to contact me if you have questions about the wine courses I teach and preparing for the CSW exam.

shelby@savantwines.com

Shelby Ledgerwood, CWE
Savant Wines

Growing grapes in the Antelope Valley?

A new AVA (American Viticultural Area) is being sought in Los Angeles County.  This article here describes the petition for the Antelope Valley AVA.

You don't know where the Antelope Valley is?  When our local weatherman Dallas Raines (yes, he says this is his real name) mentions "the high desert" you've hit the target.  Think Lancaster, Palmdale, Edwards Air Force Base ... and the Mojave Desert is not too far away. 

Hmmm.... you might be wondering ... Is it wise to be growing grapes in Antelope Valley? 

The summary description of the soil in the area sounds pretty good:  Boundary lines for the AVA closely follow the highest elevation of alluvial fans and terraces weathered from granite and other rocks in the surrounding mountains, providing deep loamy fine sand to loam and silty clay soils, well drained and aerated in the root zone and mineral rich with low to moderate fertility.

But then we get to these interesting bits: valley precipitation ranges from 4 to 9 inches, with little or no snow, and the growing season is 240 to 260 days ... although an average of 110 days per year register high temperatures above 90°F...

The grapevine needs an average of 25 inches of rain per year.  This means that mother nature will only provide for 16-36% of the water needed to grow grapes in this area.  So the rest will have to be piped in by man.  True, grapes can be grown very successfully with the help of irrigation - think Colombia Valley Washington and Mendoza Argentina.  But this is California.  In this day of fighting over delta smelts, water rationing and general water shortages throughout the state - one has to wonder - Is it wise to be growing grapes in the Antelope Valley?

Another, perhaps more important point, is that photosynthesis begins to shut down above 90 degrees Fahrenheit.  Photosynthesis is the process that transforms sunlight into carbohydrates and ripens grape flavors.  Optimum temperature for photosynthesis is 77-82.5F.  So in the Antelope Valley, 40-45% of the days in the growing season will have a significant number of hours when it will be too hot for growing grapes.  When almost half of the season's growing days have sub-par growing conditions - one has to wonder - Is it wise to be growing grapes in the Antelope Valley?