Savant Wines Notebook

Mojo as good as the juice - Saarloos and Sons

I really dig the snappy videos on this site - in particular The Moment Fruit Becomes Wine from the farmers-turned-uber-cool Saarloos and Sons in Los Olivos (click on the video at the bottom that looks like the lid of a red paint can.)  It runs through the process of draining a tank, digging out a tank and pressing the skins.

The wines are juicy but please make note - their mojo is as good as the juice.  Check out the Sermons.  You are preaching to the choir, my friend!  My favorites:

#2) "No tasting notes.  We don't tell YOU what YOU taste."

#8) "If you are snobby we will kick you out of the house. A snob is defined as: Someone who uses their level of experience or knowledge to make someone new feel inferior or uncomfortable."

Saarloos and Sons tasting room is a restored craftsman house on Grand Avenue in downtown Los Olivos - just 1.5 hours from Los Angeles - make the trip, you'll dig it too.  Thanks Pamela at Senorita Vino!

3 zones for grape berry juice

Juice from a grape berry comes from three different zones.  The composition of the juice is different in each zone.  Working from the inside of the berry out towards the skin, the three zones are: central, intermediate and peripheral.

Crushing a berry (breaking open the skin) releases the free run juice.  This is the sweetest juice, with the most nutrients and the least amount of harsh phenolics (tannins.)  This juice comes from the intermediate zone.  When a grape berry is first pressed (where physical pressure is placed on it to extract juice) the first press juice also comes from the intermediate zone, in the middle of the berry, where most of the pulp/juice/water is located. 

The pips/seeds are located in the central zone,in the center of the berry.  When grapes are crushed (just broken open, not pressed) the crusher has to be set just right so that it doesn't squeeze too hard and break open the pips.  Pips have very aggressive tannins and that are typically considered to be undesirable in the winemaking process.

The peripheral zone is the area that sits just underneath the skin.  There is very little juice in this area, but this is where many of the aromatics are located.  You can not strip the skin away from this pulp without breaking open the skin cells.  Breaking open the skin cells will also introduce undesirable, harsh tannins into the wine.  A 'cold soak' is an effective way to get at these aromatics without breaking open the skin cells.   The grapes are typically crushed (just plit open) so the skin can come into contact with the free run juice from the intermediate zone.  The mixture (called the 'must') is held for a short time at a cold temperature to prevent fermentation from starting.  This maceration period on the skins allows for the aromatics to be leeched out of the peripheral zone without releasing the harsh phenolics (tannins) from the skins.

Do California wines age faster than old world wines?

Question: Do California wines age faster than the old world wines?

Answer:  There are 3 primary components that allow a wine to age: tannin, acidity and residual sugar.  To age well, a wine needs to have 2 out of the 3.  These structural components act as natural preservatives.  They slow down the oxidation process, allowing the primary fruit aromas to develop into tertiary ones.  It is also important to note - you must have good fruit concentration from the start - otherwise the wine will have the ability to age, but there is very little to develop from.

The specific growing region and the winemaking style can also contribute to agebility.  In general, wines from California do age more quickly than wines from Bordeaux or Barolo, as example.  If we were to compare Napa Valley vs. Bordeaux, the climate in Napa is warmer (lower acidity) and the harvest date is typically later in the season (riper, more concentrated fruit, less astringent tannins, lower acidity.)  And lastly, as compared to Bordeaux or Barolo, wines from California are typically not aged as long in new wood barrels (lower tannins.) 

Question Submitted: S.G. / Summer 2011

Bubbles in Riesling?

Question: I don't recall if bubbles in Riesling are considered a flaw or not.  Also, are the bubbles produced as a result of fermentation in the bottle?

Answer: In Riesling, bubbles are not considered to be a flaw, although for most high end Riesling ($30+) they will naturally be eliminated  by bottling later or using a permeable vessel (ie: Alsace).  If the wine is to be bottled young and bubbles are not desired, a producer can sparge the wine with a neutral gas to remove them. 

In general, bubbles are not considered a flaw for white wine.  They are most commonly found in aromatic varietals that are bottled young.  Ideally bubbles in a white wine are either leftover from primary fermentation, or they are added at the time of bottling via CO2 injection. 

Bubbles in some white wines (such as Chardonnay) are not a flaw, but considered atypical.  In regards to Chardonnay, this is most likely due to the fact that a good portion of high end wine is aged for many months in barrel - during which time the fermentation bubbles naturally dissipate.   So while it is not a fualt, it is also not typical for the varietal.

In contrast, bubbles are considered to be a flaw for red wines on the commercial market.  Perceptible bubbles in red wine is not a trait that a winemaker would purposefully keep (from primary fermentation) or add (inject with CO2) in a red wine.  However, I know a few winemakers who actually do inject their red wine with a tiny amount of CO2 at bottling.  This is done in very small amounts so the bubbles are imperceptible on the palate - it is done to give the wine "lift".

Bubbles can be produced in white and red wine via undesirable means - and this is when it is a flaw.  They can be produced if a wine re-ferments in the bottle (sugar + yeast) or if the wine goes through MLF (malic acid + lactic acid bacteria) in the bottle.  In this case, in addition to the bubbles, you would have cloudiness or sediment, and sometimes a "dish-drain" type of aroma.

Question Submitted: J.T. / Winter 2011

Protecting red wine from oxygen during fermentation

Question:  How important is it to protect a red wine from oxygen during fermentation?

Answer:  Oxygen is a dual edged sword.  It can be both detrimental and beneficial to wine.

As long as the must is actively and aggressively fermenting, the CO2 being produced will keep the yeast in an oxygen deprived state (so it will produce alcohol) and protect the must/wine from oxygen ingress.  Typically punch downs, pump overs, delestage (if they are going to occur) occur with the highest frequency, and without too much worry, during active fermentation.  This is a key bit though - the wine has to be fully/actively fermenting.  Not just a pocket of it.  This would be checked by progressive changes in density (monitoring the drop of sugar) and temperature.  Once the fermentation begins to slow down - pump overs/punch downs become less frequent.  (Depends on the grape variety and the producer, of course.) 

The time to be concerned about oxygen ingress is when fermentation slows down/stops.  This is when you would start topping tanks with an unreactive gas (CO2, argon, nitrogen or a mix) after every winemaking procedure until it is bottled.  Certain wines will continue to be kept in tank, on their skins, after primary fermentation (ie: Cabernet Sauvignon) for an extended maceration to extract more polyphenols (tannins).  3-4 weeks is not uncommon.  A tiny bit of oxygen is ok at this point as it helps to "fix" the color molecules to the tannin molecules (see: Micro-ox) but large amounts will ruin the new wine. 

Acetic acid bacteria is a big concern at this stage - it flourishes with oxygen and feeds on alcohol - it can quickly turn a wine into vinegar, if it is not controlled.  Since acetic acid bacteria is widely prevelant in wineries, the easiest method to control it, is to control the wine's exposure to oxygen.

Question Submitted: D.T. / Fall 2010

What to look for when buying Beaujolais:

Question: I have a question about Beaujolais wines. There has been a lot of buzz about the 09 vintage being excellent, and I was wondering if I should be concerned with mixing that up with the Nouveau wines. How can I tell the difference, is it clearly labeled?  AG 11/2/10

Answer: Beaujolais Nouveau is released on the 3rd Thursday of November - so mid-November is when you will start hearing the most about it.  You'll see the current release around Thanksgiving.  It will be dated with the current vintage, which is 2010.  The grapes were grown, harvested and made into wine in 2010. 

Beaujolais Nouveau (BN) is made with a unique fermentation method called carbonic maceration (CM).  It is an intracellular fermentation (conversion of sugar to alcohol) without the use of yeast.  The benefits are that the wine ferments quickly, it limits the extraction of tannins and it produces a bright, fresh, fruity aroma.  These wines are meant to be consumed quickly, while their aromas are at their height.

In general 2009 is indeed an excellent vintage in many parts of France, and worth looking for as it starts arriving on store shelves over the next few years.  As well, 2009 is likely to be one of the best vintages on record for Beaujolais.  2009 BN was released a year ago, in November 2009.  Most people sell out of BN by New Year's Eve, or the next spring at the latest.  Because of the fermentation method it does not produce a wine with a very long shelf life.

In theory, no reputable seller should have any 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau left on their shelves at this point.  However, it certainly is possible.  A few months ago I saw a case stack of 2006 BN at a grocery store!  I can only assume that someone found it in the back and moved it to the floor without realizing what it was.  In general, a four year old BN is not a good bet. 

So, look for the words "Nouveau" specifically, in conjunction with the vintage.  When you see this word, it should be for the current year (which is 2010).  If you are looking for regular Beaujolais (not Nouveau) just make sure that "Nouveau" does not appear on the label.  For 2009 vintage, for regular Beaujolais, I would also suggest looking for "Beaujolais Villages" as it comes from a selection of villages that have better soil (granite) and produce better wine in general.  It will run you about $2 more per bottle, but typically worth it.  I would also suggest visiting a wine retailer (like The Wine House) for this wine.  Not all, but much of the stuff in grocery stores is large volume, mass produced.  For about $14/bottle you should be able to find a 2009 Beaujolais Villages from a small producer.  (Dominique Piron is one of my favorites.)

In about a year or so, you will be able to buy Grand Cru Beaujolais (Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-a-Vent, etc.) for about $25-$30/btl.  These are not nearly on par with the red Grand Cru's of Burgundy (Pinot Noir), but they are the very best that the Gamy grape has to offer, from the best granite hillsides.  2009 should be excellent.  The Grand Crus of Beaujolais (in a wonderfully ripe vintage like 2009) can be some of the best bargains around!

On a similar note, you'll want to watch for the word "joven" on Spanish wines.  It translates as "young".  Technically (by law) it means that no wood was used in the making of the wine.  When I was in Spain a few years ago, almost all of the "joven" wines I tasted were produced mostly by CM.  The export market is a little different though, because CM does not have a long shelf life.  In the US, in my experience, "joven" wines are typically part CM/part regular fermentation.  In general you would want to see "joven" in conjunction with a very young vintage.  For example "joven" on a 2009 would be acceptable now and in April of next year when the young 2010 reds start coming out.  Next year, "joven" on 2009 and 2010 would be acceptable.  2007 and 2008 is starting to push it, but would depend on the producer.  "Joven" on a 2006 (or older vintage) would not be a good bet at all. 

Question Submitted: A.L. / Fall 2010

Carignane - I just can't carry on, or can I?

Who was asking me where to find Carignane (care-i-nya-on) in class last week? 

When I worked for Randall Graham of Bonny Doon Vineyards , several Carignanes came and went (mostly through the DEWN wine club.)  A particular favorite was "The Ugly Duckling", eluding to the lowly status but definite potential of Carignane.

This article Carignane gets a shot at respect gives some insight as to why this is such a difficult grape to grow and vinify successfully.  At the end of the article there are some of the better (if few) producers  listed.  Carignane is a difficult varietal wine to find in the Los Angeles market - you typically have to search the ubiquitous "other red" category and check out numerous back labels.  I found the much lauded Lioco "Indica" at The Wine House,although you wouldn't know that it was made with Carignane by just looking at the label.  

The yield of Carignane must be drastically curbed in order to concentrate the fruit flavors.  Old vines often give the best quality fruit because the vine naturally regulates its yield as it gets older.  In the cellar, Carignane has the double wammy of high acid and high tannins - this can make for a very unpleasant combination in wine - thus the need for ripe, concentrated fruit and a gentle extraction. 

Carignane is mostly thought of as a "blending grape" because it gives structure to wines made from grapes that are fruitier and lacking in backbone.  It is often blended with Zinfandel (as a CA field blend) or Grenache (as a Rhone-style blend.)  In south of France some great success has been seen with using carbonic maceration for part of the fermentation - this extracts fewer tannins and brings up the high notes of the fruit.

Carignane ... I just can't carry on anymore!

Green Corks?

No, we're not talking about green colored corks, but the fact that corks are more environmentally friendly (aka green) then alternative closures such as screwcaps and synthetics.  This makes sense when you think about where the products come from and how they are created (cork, screwcap, synthetic.)  For the details, the Price Waterhouse report is here: Cork Facts

In reading about this story I found myself on the Amorim cork website where there was (no surprise) many articles spouting the virtues of natural cork.  I readily admit, I do prefer/expect a cork finish for wines over $25 retail / to be aged 5+ years, but I also see many positive attributes in alternative closures.  It should not be a question of either/or.

On the Amorim website, I found this interesting press release, stating that a leading expert in the USA had declared TCA Taint Resolved and that natural corks have achieved a 99% performance rating.

I guess the bottles that we get in Los Angeles must be different???  In this week's class Introduction to Wine @ UCLA Extension we had 1 corked bottle (TCA tainted) out of 18 bottles total.  There were 4 bottles under screwcap, so this is 1/14.  The price range of the wines was $14.99 - $67.99.  I estimate before this course is over (6 weeks, 100 bottles) we will come across another 2-3 corked bottles.  Subtract out the screwcaps and synthetics (30%) and we will have 4/70 bottles corked = 4 - 6% corked (TCA tainted) bottles.

I will keep track of the total number of corked bottles this quarter and comment on this post next month.  However, this number of 4 - 6% TCA taint is completely in line with the averages I see in my work, and through the wine courses I teach.  Yes, I think the incidence of TCA taint on the whole, has gone down over the last several years ... but resolved to less then 1%?  I completely disagree with this statement.